Wherein Arya gets her flirt on, Sansa gets snarky, Jon (finally) gets some knowledge and Bran gets very, very weird MAJOR SPOILERS AHEAD. If you haven't yet seen this episode (and probably every previous episode), don't read this, dude! Not to mention that it's way long!
Many users have commented negatively about this episode, which utterly baffles me. Because it's obvious that its purpose was to get all the characters in place, like chess pieces, for the final Big War; it was clearly not the intent of show runners "D&D" and the writer, Dave Hill, to create a "Red Wedding"-like episode and knock the audience's socks off. However, I'll only respond to one previous IMDB comment, in which the user called the characters of Jon and Daenerys "wooden." To that person, I'd like to say: if you really feel that way, I'd be interested to know why you're even bothering to watch the series, let alone taking the time to comment on it in a forum like this. God knows, GoT over the years has displayed quite a few major flaws: firetruck-sized plot holes (even if you approve of all the supernatural stuff), utterly bewildering character motivations, the bizarre knack of certain figures (like Littefinger) to turn up everywhere in Westeros at once, in a fictional world in which the swiftest possible conveyance is the horse. But "wooden" characters are not among those flaws. Dany in particular has had an incredibly complex and compelling character arc. Seeing her now, in comparison with the timid, doll-like girl of the first episode of Season 1, you'd almost think it's not the same actress playing her. Emilia Clark, in the face of debilitating illness, has done a magnificent job, in my opinion, of conveying that arc. End of rant.
The best scene of the episode is the final one, which perfectly mirrors the still-shocking last scene of the very first episode of the series. In that older episode, Jaime - the brother-in-law of King Robert, the brother/lover of the Queen and the (biological) father of the heir, as well as Lord Commander of the Kingsguard, was one of the most powerful people in Westeros; Bran was a powerless child. So Jaime felt he could push Bran from the tower window (because he caught Jaime having sex with Cersei) with impunity. Now, the roles are totally reversed: Jaime, having sacrificed literally everything for a pathologically ungrateful woman, has nothing at all. Bran, though still paralyzed, and a Stark and thus an enemy of Cersei, is the brother of the Lady of Winterfell, the alleged half-brother (but actually first cousin) of the (former) King of the North, and an ally of the powerful Dragon Queen. Jamie, unlike Theon with the murder of the poor, innocent farm boys, had never expressed any remorse over his attempt to kill Bran. But at the moment he sees Bran in this episode, Jaime not only feels fear but, perhaps for the first time, an overwhelming sense of guilt for his crime. (Nicolaj Coster-Waldau, that very fine actor, expresses all this without a word of dialogue.) There has never been a more evocative closing scene of any episode in this series.
Getting back to Dany, the character was particularly solid this week, though the more I see of her, the less sympathetic I find her. In the dragon-riding scene, she was wonderfully charming and sexy and fun: she almost threatened to become cuddly. But then there's the scene in which she's introduced to Sam by Jorah, and the other, darker Dany emerges. (Let me note in passing that Sam's dialogue in this scene is unconvincing. It's perhaps logical that he would ask Queen Dany's pardon for stealing books from the Citadel that belong to the State - "borrowing" he calls it, as if the Citadel were a lending library - but it isn't logical to ask the queen's forgiveness for stealing the sword Heartsbane from the Tarly household, a transgression that was a purely family, not a State, matter. It seemed a very clumsy way for the writer to have Sam reveal to her that he is, in fact, a Tarly, which could have been done in a much less awkward fashion.) After Dany tells him that she executed - torched, actually - his awful father and beloved brother, she goes ice cold: she has zero empathy for Sam's pain, nor does she have much sympathy for poor, embarrassed Jorah, whose loyalty is torn between his new best buddy and the queen he loves and serves. You can almost hear her wondering if this Tarly, too, will become an enemy. Ironically, he soon does become an enemy, since he then reveals to Jon the latter's Targaryen origins, thus driving a wedge between Jon and Dany at the worst possible time (though she herself is still ignorant of Jon's true parentage). Kudos to the show's creators for not shying away from the character's dark side.
Let me add my own commentary here about Sam's "reveal" scene. Sam innocently calls Jon the "true king," but in fact, there is no such thing! One of the main themes that I take away from this show is that the whole concept of legitimacy is a lie: nobody ever rules a nation by right, only by force and custom. Gendry, the illegitimate son of Robert, has as much claim to the throne as Jon, maybe more. It's true that Robert Baratheon ruled Westeros only by "right of conquest," but the Targaryens conquered the realm 300 years earlier the same way, with their dragons, and House Baratheon succeeded them. If there are any Children of the Forest left, it could be argued that they have the right to rule, since they were in Westeros before anybody else. Cersei's "I'm making myself Queen just because I can" logic is, at least, honest, as opposed to all this bloodline nonsense. End of second rant.
It was shrewd and appropriate for the episode to be introduced with the march of the great army into Winterfell as seen from Arya's point-of-view, and it was very clever for the writer to include the anonymous little boy whose behavior hearkens back to both Arya's and Bran's actions in episode 1, when King Robert arrived at Westeros.
I also liked the quiet flirting between Arya and Gendry in the foundry scene, which was very well underplayed by both actors. One of the disturbing things about this show's fans is their enthusiastic embrace of the idea of Arya the Killer. Even granting that all her victims deserved it, I remember the cute, innocent little tomboy she was in the beginning, and I'm still holding out hope that she might, after the war, be redeemed and turn away from bloodshed... though I also hope that Arya and Gendry don't become sexually or romantically involved (I don't think they will).
I enjoyed the running gag in which all of sentimental Jon's reunions turn sour, as Bran goes all weird on him, Arya implicitly threatens him (in case he might later betray the Starks), and Sam is still grieving.
And then there's that other running gag of Sansa throwing shade on just about everyone she encounters (except the little Umber boy). But this is not because Sansa has suddenly become nasty; rather, her harsh behavior perfectly conforms to the logic of her character. Sansa despises the naive, starry-eyed little girl she used to be, though nothing that happened to her was her fault, and she takes her responsibilities as the Lady of Winterfell very seriously. Consequently, she tries to play the adult in the room, the one who undercuts everybody else's illusions for their own benefit: she's gotten snarky, but out of good will. It feels right that she's the one who asks how they're all going to feed this huge army through the winter, a question that remains unanswered. It also make sense that she asks Jon privately whether he gave up his crown for the people's good or because he loves Dany - and again, there's no answer forthcoming.
Tyrion begins his part of the episode making fun of Varys' lack of testicles, and it all goes downhill for him from there. I never dreamed that he would make such an incompetent Hand of the Queen, and it's terribly painful when, at the war council, he promises the Northmen that Cersei will fight for them, when we know she intends to double-cross everybody. But it's not that Tyrion has suddenly become stupid; it's that his loyalties are unconsciously and tragically divided. Although he desperately wants to serve Daenerys, he can't help hoping that he'll somehow be reconciled with Cersei... who has hated him literally from the day he was born. This explains the crucial scene in which the more objective Sansa expresses astonishment that he believed Cersei's promises. "I used to think you were the cleverest man alive," she tells him - by far, the episode's best single line. I agree with another commentator that the show runners are setting up Tyrion for a tragic ending, which IMHO would be just and right.
And finally, we come back to Bran. All the evidence suggests that he's working with the Night King against the Winterfell alliance. The fact that he urges Sam to tell Jon the truth about his parentage, rather than telling him himself, is a dead giveaway. Remember that Bran's personality didn't change while he was in the cave with the (former) Three-Eyed Raven, though he was already "downloading" the Raven's vast knowledge. It was only after he had the dream or vision of the Night King grabbing him by the wrist that Bran ceased to be Bran, so it's not simply that his brain is overloaded that's turned him into a zombie. There's also a theory that Bran is not just possessed by the Night King, but always was him, by some sort of time-travel nonsense, but I don't want to believe this.
Wittiest line: After Jon asks what will happen if the dragon Rhaegal refuses to let him, Jon, ride on his back, Dany says: "Then I did enjoy your company, Jon Snow." Second wittiest line: When Tyrion calls Joffrey's wedding a "miserable affair," Sansa answers, "It had its moments" (i.e., Joffrey's death).
Most-expected development: Theon rescues Yara. Least-expected development: Cersei hires Bronn as hit man.
All in all, I'd give the episode an 8.