It’s no insult to any documentary about a restaurant, or a celebrity chef, to say that it’s a piece of food porn; the insult would be to say that it isn’t. Yet what sort of food porn, exactly, is “Constructing Albert”? The movie is a portrait of Albert Adrià, the Barcelona-based chef who worked, for years, alongside his older brother, Ferran Adrià, who was the mastermind of elBulli, the visionary hillside palace of Spanish gastronomy that was thought of as the number-one restaurant in the world. (It closed in 2011.) At elBulli, the Adriàs perfected a brand of culinary indulgence that was one part pleasure, one part postmodern sci-fi; they created flavors and textures of a surreal deconstruction designed to revolutionize the very concept of what it meant to experience a piece of food on your tongue. There is low-end cuisine, and there is high-end cuisine. This...